Hello again! Yes, we’re still in the Bahamas. However, there has been a mass exodus of boats heading north towards home. Every morning there are fewer boats in the harbor. When I left you last, we were in Georgetown, Great Exuma Island. We stayed there for 2 weeks, and we could have probably stayed longer. I can see why a lot of people go and stay there for 2-3 months.

Our first full day there, we dinghied across the bay to the town dinghy dock, behind the Exuma market. We set off on foot to see the town, which is all on one road that surrounds Lake Victoria, a very small lake. There are two markets, a gas station, a couple hair salons, several restaurants, a bakery, three gift shops, a library, clinic, government building, and a straw market. We walked around the entire town, which took about 40 minutes. Then we went to the Peace and Plenty Resort for lunch and a cold beer.

After a delicious lunch, the women headed across the street to the Sandpiper, to do a little shopping, and the guys headed for the local hardware store, called Top to Bottom. They have it all, just about anything you could ever need or want. They even had a selection of ripped off DVD’s, so we picked up a couple for $5.00 each. There is no other way to buy DVD’s in the Bahamas. Even in the DVD store in Nassau, they were all ripped off copies.

When everyone was finished shopping, we met up at the Two Turtles Bar. While we were waiting for everyone to get there, we watched some locals play dominos. There was one very colorful, loud character playing, that kept slamming the dominos down when he made a play. He told us he was “the Teacher”. He kept beating his opponents, and pretty soon, he was in need of new players, so Gail and I decided to give it a try, even though I’d never played before. I had pretty good beginners luck, and after I finally beat him 5 games, he decided he had had enough! It was so much fun!!!

One of the other interesting places was the library. It is open every day except Sunday, from 10:00am to 12:00pm. They have a special section that is for books to be exchanged, that is fairly large. For $3.00 per year, you can trade as many books as you want. What a deal!!

The next day, we crossed the island and went to the beach to look for shells. I have quite a collection of tiny shells, some medium, and some large conk shells. It was a long hike on the beach, and the surf was quite high and the undertow looked pretty powerful, so when we got back to the opposite side of the island, we headed straight into the water for a swim. Then we moved on over to Volleyball beach, and spent the afternoon swimming and reading in the shade of the palm trees. Ahhhhh!!!!

Most of our days in Georgetown were mostly the same. We did find good snorkeling in a cut between two islands, that is surrounded by sand bars. We hunted and hunted and finally found a rare shell called a Cowery, as well as a few Conch shells and Sea Biscuits. The water is so clear, that the snorkeling is great. Gene and Frank tried to do a little fishing, but were not successful. After the snorkeling, we would go back to Volleyball beach for the remainder of the afternoon.

In the evenings we would get together on Nightingale and have either drinks and appetizers, or sometimes we would do a meal. Then we would play Mexican Train Dominos, sometimes until the wee hours of the morning. But always at sundown, the conch shells would be blown, and Dave would play “Taps”.

One of the highlights of Georgetown was the Tuesday and Thursday night poker games at the St. Francis Yacht Club. For a $5.00 buy in, you received a huge pile of chips and a playing card that designated where you would sit. There were usually about 50 players spread over 5 different tables. When the action started, you would go in and find your chair. Husbands and wives are never allowed to start at the same table. Then we would play Texas Hold ‘Em for 20 minute periods. Each successive period, the stakes would be raised. Eventually, people are weeded out and moved around, and the action is down to one Final table. The top 5 people win a portion of the buy in. It was such a hoot!!! I was pretty intimidated the first time I played, since I had never played Texas Hold’Em before, but all of the cruisers were friendly and helpful. My goal that first night was not to be the first person out, and I succeeded. I played way longer than I thought possible, and even outlasted Dave.

Our group usually went up to the club early and had dinner before playing, as did quite a few others, and ended up playing well. One night, Gene came in 2nd and won $45.00, then another evening, Evan came in 1st and won $120.00, and on our final evening, Dave came in 1st and won $75.00. I was so proud of him!!! The amount of the winnings is determined by the number of people playing on any given night. Although I was never the big winner, I got one of the best compliments one night while playing at a table where I had three men to my left. If I decided to play my hand, they would moan and groan and say, “If she’s playing, I’m out!” Made my day!!

One day, there were nine of us that wanted to tour Great Exuma Island, so we pooled our money and rented two cars. The guys all went in one car, and the women in the other, except for our designated driver, Gene. Poor Gene! In the Bahamas, they drive on the other side of the road, and, the driver is on the right side of the car. This presented quite a challenge!! Especially since none of the roads have a centerline. Gene did a really good job, but we still laughed every time he went to use the turn signal, and the windshield wipers came on.

We first went south from Georgetown, and toured through an upscale residential neighborhood full of mansions. Then the rest of the trip was like a third world country. They really are poor people. Tourism is their only industry. Everyone who lives on the island is a shopkeeper or employees, and their homes are all made out of concrete blocks. Small homes with no yards.

We visited some ruins on the south end, of homes that had been built in the 1700’s. There was also a huge salt flat down there. All that salt made us thirsty, so we stopped at a roadside Tiki Bar that was open for some snacks and a soft drink. They had no snacks, but Mama, the baker, had a shop in the garage next door, and she opened up to sell us some goodies. We had banana bread and sticky buns, and afterwards, went over to see what else we could buy. I took back some coconut turnovers to have for breakfast, and others bought bread and rum cakes. Mama had a picture on the wall of her alongside Goldie Hawn. Apparently, she and Kurt Russell, and their boys, were in the Bahamas, and stopped by like we did. Goldie, dug right in and helped Mama bag her newly baked bread. The Tiki Bar and Mama also provided lunch several days for the actors and crew of the newest Pirates of the Carribean movie, who were filming just off shore. They had several pictures of that, too! No, I didn’t run into Johnny Depp. Rats!!!!

After our snack, we drove back just north of Georgetown to an area called “the Fish Fry”, where we had lunch at Haley’s. We had been there one other time, and had a fabulous grouper lunch fixed by Shirley, in a shack. She used to be the chef at the Four Seasons resort until it closed down. This meal was equally as good, and only $12 a head. Then we hit the road again and headed for Barre Tarre on the northernmost tip of the island.

Barre Tarre was a sleepy little fishing village, but the women found a basket maker who also made purses and bags, etc. While the women shopped, the men found the town bar and had themselves a cold one. On the way south again, we stopped at the Emerald Bay Marina. We had heard terrific things about it, and it did not let us down. It is pretty new, and has wonderful floating docks for $1.00 per foot per night, for no frills (power, water, cable). There are fabulous shower facilities that include shampoo, conditioner, lotion, soap, and even shaving cream. The best feature is the free high speed internet and the FREE laundry! They had four brand new Sears Kenmore washers and dryers for FREE! They also had a cruisers lounge above their office that was huge and very tastefully decorated in a French/Island motive. Looked like the lobby of a Marriott. There was also a bar room available that was BYOB and another room with a pool table. The main room and the bar both had big screen TV”S, and internet hook up.

We all walked around with wide eyes and our tongues hanging out. Much to our surprise, we saw Christopher Robin at the dock and went down to talk to Louise and Gerard. They will be coming to Georgetown soon, so we will be able to visit with them again there.

Sandal’s Emerald Bay Resort is next to the marina, so we went over to check it out.It is spectacular!! The main feature is the HUGE outdoor pool area. There were dolphin statues are spouting water, and a swim up bar. Around the pool were overstuffed lounge chairs with umbrellas for shade. If you wanted to be active, you could play shuffleboard, croquet, or chess on a human size chess board. There was, of course, a beautiful white sand beach. We thought we might have dinner there, but it is an all inclusive resort, so for the price of the room you get to eat and drink all you want with no additional cost. We found out that if you stay at the marina, you can pay $180.00 per person for a day pass to the Sandal’s Resort, or $225.00 for a day and evening pass. Yeah, right!! So, instead, we hustled back to Georgetown and had dinner on the boat.

We did decide that our first stop as we sail north out of Georgetown, would be Emerald Bay, and that is exactly what we did. It took us about 3 hours a few days later, to sail up the coast to the marina. We were all very anxious to do A LOT of laundry, and watch the Master’s golf tournament on the big screen TV. We spent the mornings washing everything possible, and the afternoons and evenings watching golf and playing dominos. We were in heaven!!!!!!

On Tuesday, April 12th, we cast off the lines and headed north for Galliut Cut. Gene and Frank tried once again to catch some fish for dinner, but the fish were not cooperating! There was not much wind blowing, so it was slow going, but it was another beautiful day!

After throwing out the anchor in Galliut, we launched the dinghy and headed to shore for more shelling. The tide was a little high, so it was slim pickings. That evening, we gathered for another lively game of dominos.

We spent the next day snorkeling, trying to find the area that Evan had told us had excellent snorkeling. At this point, we were searching high and low for Helmet shells, very tropical looking. Frank and Gail had already found some, but I had not been successful. We are also looking for the most beautiful Conch shell. We did find a few candidates and a few sand dollars.

Thursday the 14th, we hauled up the anchor and headed to Big Major Spot. The wind did not cooperate until the last hour of the trip, then gave us a nice blast to get into the anchorage. It felt good to be back in familiar surroundings, although there were not near as many boats as there were previously.

We decided to venture over to Thunderball cave to have another look at the fish. There were fewer people snorkeling, so we had a much better look at all the beautiful fish and coral. Afterwards, we headed over to Staniel Cay for lunch at the bar. But first, we took a dip in the pool to wash off the salt water.

While we were waiting for lunch to arrive, who should show up, but Greg Norman, the Australian golf pro. Better known as “The Shark”. He had just flown in and was headed by speed boat for Fowl Cay, over by Big Major. I have to admit, he looked pretty darn good!

We had a great lunch, then walked up to the Blue store to see if they still had a shell for sale, that Gail had seen when we were there before. At that time, the male shopkeeper had told her it was $20.00. Imagine her surprise, when the lady shopkeeper sold it to her for $5.00!!!! It is a very nice looking Trumpet Conch shell. Not quite as much fun as finding it on the beach, but they are very rare.

We then headed back over to Big Major, but of course, had to stop and see the swimming pigs! Someone had thrown a whole bunch of food in the water, and then left, so we got to see them swim for their meal. I still can’t get over the sight of them!!!

The following day, we headed out in the dinghy for more snorkeling. We cruised over to Fowl Cay, to a sandy and grassy area that should be good to find Helmet shells. We had only been there for a minute or two, when Gail spotted one with her viewing bucket. She told me it was down there, but I would have to find it myself. So, just like an Easter egg hunt, I dove in the water and started combing the area. I found a HUGE one, then Dave spotted another, fairly close by. I decided to keep looking, and after another 10 minutes or so, I spotted another smaller one. In total, we probably snorkeled for about 2 hours, but found all of the elusive shells right at the start.

While we were snorkeling, a big giant sting ray came gliding by. They are so big they really frighten me, but I’ve been told that they are more afraid of me! Speaking of gliding by, a speed boat passed us, with Greg Norman and his entourage.

On Saturday the 16th, we headed further north to revisit Warderick Wells, and the infamous Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. This time we are staying in the North mooring field, and it is breathtakingly beautiful. It is shaped like a big horseshoe, with a large sand bar in the center. Surrounding it is a ribbon of deep blue water where the mooring balls are.

There is also a pretty good snorkeling area where we have been a few times. The park is a “no take” zone, so we saw a lot of fish and HUGE lobsters. They seem to be laughing at us, as we stare at them with our mouths watering!

We took one day to walk up to Boo Boo Hill, the highest point on the island, where there is a pile of driftwood of every shape and size. Each piece has the name of a boat on it that has visited the island. On our last visit, we found a long weathered board that we thought would work well for our boat name. On the sail north, I put the following on it: Dream Ketcher 2011, Olympia, Washington, Dave and Patti Kuchenbecker, Whitby 42, and an anchor in the corner. I will try to get some pictures posted, but it has been almost impossible due to the slow internet connections.

Since we have been here, the winds and waves have really picked up. The mooring field is well protected, but outside, the winds are 20-30 knots. So, we have had to stay put. Looks like we’ll be here until maybe next Wednesday the 27th. For Easter this Sunday, the park is having a pot luck meal at the park warden’s house. Should be fun!

Last night we got together on Nightingale and played Hearts until late. Tonight we’re getting together with a few more boats on the beach for appetizers and sundowners. Never a dull moment.

I will probably not post again until we are back in the US, as it can be difficult. It will take us 2 days to get to Nassau, and then 2-3 days to get to Bimini. Not sure how long we will have to wait for a weather window to cross back to Florida.

May 4th, we will have been living on the boat for 1 year. Seems impossible that that much time has passed, but I am anxious to be back on land again for awhile. Most of all, we are anxious to see all of our friends and family again!!!

Love & Hugs,

The Admiral