Georgetown, Great Exuma

Georgetown, Great Exuma
There is a Paradise!!!!

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Don’t you just love ‘em??? These are the famous swimming pigs of Big Major Spot in the Exumas. They are huge and very fast swimmers! They see your inflatable coming towards the beach and they swim out to see what food you have for them. They have very sharp hooves, so you do not want them to get too close, but it was difficult to out maneuver them. Just look at the size of those ears!! These pigs should be able to fly! We had so much fun watching these wild pigs. There were about 7 in all, and we were amazed by their stamina, and by how far out they could swim. Definitely one of the highlights!!

Now back to where I left off in Nassau. The Saturday before we left, we decided that everyone should get together for one last dinner together before some boats in the group parted ways. Fourteen of us piled into a taxi van and headed to what they call “the Fish Fry”. It is a group of restaurants all built around the port where the fishing fleet comes in. We enjoyed a fabulous dinner, then went outside and found that the catholic church was having an outdoor carnival. We strolled through the booths and danced to the music, and watched as the kids danced to the beat. A good time was had by all!

By Monday morning, the high winds had subsided, and we had a terrific sail down to Shroud Cay. We arrived there in mid afternoon, and soon after, we dropped the dinghy down in order to do some exploring. There is actually a well on this desolate limestone island, along with lots of shrub height trees. The rain, slowly over the millennium, dissolves the limestone, creating an intricate labyrinth of pockets and tunnels that collect and hold the rain, thus providing the fresh water needed by the plants. After a bit of exploring, we were able to find the well. Dave took a drink, and hasn’t died yet, so I guess it was okay!

The next day, we moved on down to the Exuma Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells. This is a much bigger island than Shroud, and is covered with trails. It is a protected area, and you are not allowed to remove anything from the park. No fishing or shelling, etc. You must leave everything as you find it. There are three mooring fields. We stayed in the middle of the three, known as Emerald Rock. The rock is so named because it looks like a mushroom, and is covered with green plants. We did take the time to go snorkeling near the rock, and saw some colorful fish. Not a lot, but enough to get a taste of it.
In order to register in the park, we had to take a long dinghy ride up to the northern mooring field, where you are absolutely astounded by the colors of the water. It is a very shallow bay that has a ribbon of deep blue water running around the outside edges. All of the boats are moored in this ribbon. In contrast, you have the white sand under the very shallow turquoise water. Just north of the park headquarters, is a white sand beach with a grass hut covered picnic table. This was just perfect for a couple of sundowner parties. Also on the beach is the skeleton of a big grey whale. HUGE!

We spent the next few days hiking the many trails. First up was the hike to Boo Boo Hill. At the top, all of the cruisers who have been there in the past have left a token with their boat name on it. Usually a piece of driftwood or a shell, but some are a bit more creative. We did not leave one this time, but did find a piece of driftwood to use. When we go back on our way north, we will deposit it then. We also took a small side trip to the Blow Holes. Dave called them “the nostrils of the sea”! Two small holes that get the surge of the sea, and blow sea water up for quite a distance. You can definitely feel it! It also sounds really spooky; like ghosts saying “Boo, Boo”. Hence, the name for the hill.

We were eager to do some snorkeling, so we dinghied up to the north mooring field to meet with Gene and Gail, from Nightengale. Wherever the snorkeling is supposed to be good, buoys are placed for you to tie up to. The current was still running a bit strong, but we finally got tied up and in to the water. Then it seemed really strong! I was afraid if I let go, I wouldn’t get back to the boat. We finally tied a cushion onto a line, and I floated on that, but I couldn’t see anything in the water. We gave up and decided to try Emerald Rock. This time, there was no current, and there was a lot to see. So many vibrant colors! Fish of every shape and size, and colorful coral. We spent about an hour with the fishes, then went back to the boat to relax and read for awhile. The snorkeling was not near as good as in the British Virgin Islands, but we still enjoyed the experience!

That night we had a get together on the beach. There were probably about 30 or so people there, lots of good food, and Rich from Dolphin brought his guitar and amplifier. We talked, sang, and rocked the night away. And oh my God, the sunsets we’ve seen!! One of the traditions here in the Bahamas, is to blow conch shells immediately after the sun goes down. So of course, Dave had to try that! He actually is very proficient at it! Of course, all those years of playing the trumpet helped. So, every night the conch shells are blown, and then Dave plays “Taps” on his pocket trumpet. We always hear lots of cheers afterwards, and have had an occasional caller on the VHF with praise.

The following day, we set out with two other couples, and went for a looooong hike to the other side of the island, where the third mooring field is located. The entire island is made of limestone, with sharp crags and deep holes. It was very slow going, and there were times where we were unsure of where the trail was, but fortunately there were faded yellow arrows to help keep us on track! Lots of scrubby brush lined the trail, as well as a tree called Poisonwood. It looks just like a ficus, only it is as dangerous as poison ivy. Touch the leaves or the bark, and you will get a rash. We had to be extremely careful.
On our way, we discovered the remains of an old 1700’s settlement. The homes were all made from limestone and sand, and the fences were piles of limestone rocks. What a rough life they had!! It reminded me of the prison setting in “Papillion”, where all of the prisoners are sent to an island to eke out a living. All of the way, we were kidding each other about being on “Survivor”, and we were greatly surprised to get to our final destination, an area called “Pirate’s Lair”, and see that it made a very fitting “tribal council”! It was a clearing in the middle of a grove of palm trees, that was lined with conch shells, and had a fire pit in the center and a fresh water well. This was where the pirates would gather for a little rest and relaxation, hidden in the trees. Then we walked out to the beach, and were stunned to see the beautiful white sand and the gorgeous turquoise bay! You just have to see it to believe it!! After the hot hike, I went right into the cooling water, while the others combed the beach for shells. We then had a picnic lunch at a carefully concealed table, that had a hammock along side. We decided that we did not want to negotiate the same trail again, so we opted to walk up the eastern shoreline which became rugged rocks just north of the bay. It was still easier walking than on the other trail. When we got back to the settlement fence, we crossed back to the other side of the island. It had taken us 2 hours to get to the pirate’s lair, and a little over an hour to bet back to our starting point. By the time we got done, I was so tired and sooo sore!!

While Dave and I were resting up, we noticed a trawler near to us, trying to lower their inflatable into the water from their upper deck. Suddenly we heard a big crash sound and looked over to see their inflatable, upside down in the water. It was a much large one than ours, about 14 feet, and had a 40 horse motor and a steering station. This was not good!! The owner was most worried about the motor leaking gas, and was anxious to get it overturned. Dave went over to help, and they decided they would need to tow it to shore, for a better chance of flipping it over. Once there, they had some difficulty, but with the help of another willing man, and his wife, they got it flipped. We found out that one of the tackle blocks on his hoist had broken, causing the inflatable to drop. He lost a few items that were in the tender, and the last we heard, 2 weeks later, the engine still won’t start. In the Bahamas, your dinghy is your car, and without it, you are at the mercy of others.

On Sunday March 13th, we set sail for Big Major Cay, home of the famous pigs. The wind was so good that we actually sailed, no motor!! It was probably the best passage we have had, and absolutely made us glad to be alive, and thankful to be able to experience this adventure!! We set the anchor and then sped over to Staniel Cay Marina in the dinghy. It was a bit farther than we had anticipated, but a glorious day to cross the beautiful waters. As we pulled up to the dock, we spied our friends Joy and Joe on High Spirits. We spent some time talking with them, and were invited to come back the next night for a fish dinner. Afterwards, we explored the marina. We were amazed to see nurse sharks and sting rays all over in the water surrounding the dinghy dock. Every afternoon, the fishermen clean their catch on the rocks next to the dock. All of the excess is then thrown to the sharks, and they are not willing to miss a meal, so they hang out a lot! The marina is attached to a small resort that offers a bar and restaurant, a lovely swimming pool (the smallest I’ve ever seen!), and several guest cottages. If you rent a cottage, you are provided with a Boston Whaler to use, as well as snorkeling gear, and if you like, you can sign up for a meal plan, and eat all of your meals in the restaurant. It is a very nice little resort that gives you the real feel of the Bahamas.

The next day, Joe and Joy invited us to join them on an excursion around the Staniel Cay island in a golf cart. We gladly accepted and had a great, although dusty, time. To wash away the dust, we took a swim on one of the beaches we passed. Joy and I were having a great time, when suddenly, we saw a big black ray in the water. He passed right by us and headed for the shoreline. He was followed by another smaller ray. I looked around to see if the sharks had followed them, but they were nowhere to be seen, thank goodness!! Afterwards, we went back to their boat and had a fine fish dinner. We were joined by our friends Tammy and Jerell from Osprey, and Marnie and Doug from Close to Home. Good food and good times were had by all, then we made a beeline back to the anchorage at Big Major.

Tuesday March 15th 2011

Hooray!!! The big day finally arrived. My sister, Judy, was flying in to Staniel Cay from Seattle. Around noon, we hauled up the anchor and motored over to The Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Should have been an easy trip, right?? Well, you know us, it’s always an adventure! The water around the marina was about 8 feet deep, except as you get nearer to the beach. The dockmaster told us to bring the boat to the inside dock (close to the beach), and dock in front of the HUGE catamaran and between our friends on High Spirits and Close to Home. Okay! I was very skeptical that we could get around the HUGE cat, since that would bring us even closer to shore, so I listened very carefully to the dockmasters instructions. But not closely enough! With only 5 feet between us, I carefully turned past the catamaran, and promptly ran aground. I started to back up, but the dockmaster said no, forward, forward, get closer to the cat. Closer???? I went forward, through the sand and we passed with only one foot between us, then slipped by High Spirits, and very carefully nuzzled in to the dock. Whew!!

After that thrilling experience, we headed for the bar and had a beer and some grouper fingers (like chicken, only fish). Then it was time to head for the airport. We had arranged to have a taxi bring us back from the airport, but to get there, we would have to walk. So we did. We passed the graveyard, the school, the clinic, the bakery (which is actually a house where they bake bread in their kitchen), the old marina, the government dock, the Baptist Church, and General Isle store, and finally reached the airport. It took us about 10 minutes. It is actually only an airfield, with a small open air seating area with a thatched roof. Samantha, the airport official, pulled up in her golf cart, with about 2 minutes to spare, and we soon heard an airplane make its approach. The plane landed and taxied right up to where we were waiting. It was a small 9 passenger plane, with the luggage compartment in the nose in front of the cockpit. Thank goodness Judy brought small bags!(giraffe, of course!) It was soooo good to see her! She not only brought herself, but she brought a small piece of home-our mail. Unfortunately, the taxi never showed up, so we walked back to the marina. Since Judy had been on airplanes for most of the previous 18 hours, she was glad to stretch her legs, and see the sights!

We got her settled on the boat, and immediately changed to swimsuits and headed for the swimming pool. It is set in the middle of the rental cottages, and has a nice patio area surrounding it, complete with comfy plush lounge chairs, palm trees and exotic flowers. The pool itself is about the size of a large hot tub/spa. It is an L shape, and along the bottom of the L is a seating area. It is also the deep end. It didn’t matter. It felt wonderful!!!! We spent the rest of the afternoon in the pool area, swimming, reading, and drinking those great island drinks (Pina Colada, Judy, Pina Colada! She could never remember the name). We also introduced her to our cruising friends, who welcomed her with open arms. We later dressed and went to dinner at the restaurant. When you make your reservation, you also pick which entrée you want. Then at 7:30pm, everyone is seated, and the meal begins with soup. On this day, lobster chowder. Mmmmmmm! Then salad, followed by the entrée, dessert, and coffee. It was delicious!!! Especially the lobster chowder!

On Wednesday, we got a slow start, then took the dinghy over to the 007 Thunderball cave. This is where they filmed a very small portion of the movie, but the entire movie was filmed in the Bahamas. We had a fabulous snorkeling adventure. There is a small cave opening that you can enter at low tide, and then proceed into the main area of the cave. It is quite large, but not as large and cavernous as my mind had envisioned. I thought there would be stalagmites, etc., but the roof of the cave was quite boring. It did have a hole in the top, so sunlight could get through and keep it from being dark. There were A LOT of fish. Every size and shape. There seemed to be more just outside the entrance, than there were in the cave itself. We spent about an hour mingling with the fishies, then went back to the marina to rinse off in the swimming pool, and enjoy another afternoon of laziness. Exactly the kind of vacation Judy wanted and needed! We had a late lunch at the bar, and that evening we watched a movie.

Thursday, ST. Patrick’s Day!! The marina was all a buzz, because they would be hosting a big green party! Green beer, 2 for 1 rum punches, and corned beef and cabbage for dinner. We needed to do some boat errands. We filled up with water, then used the dinghy to take the dirty laundry to the wash woman at Isle’s General store. For $10.00 a load, she would wash, dry, fluff, and fold the laundry. Yahoo!!! We left our large pile of laundry, bought ice cream and a few other items, and headed back for another afternoon of lounging by the pool. We were entertained by a group of vacationers from Michigan. A group of 5 couples, vacations together every year. On this day, they were having an “Amazing Race” on the island. The last few clues, and the finish line, were at the pool, so it was really quite fun to watch.

In honor of ST. Patrick’s Day, we invited our resident Irishman, Evan from Anna Livia, to join us for dinner, as well as Gene and Gail from Nightengale. We joined the throngs of partiers, most dressed in green, for a fabulous dinner outside on the upper deck. There was also a band playing music. The music wasn’t bad, but the vocals were terrible. Karaoke would have been better. Oh well. We were still in paradise with friends, family, good food and drink, and watched another beautiful sunset. It doesn’t get much better than that! (As a side note – Evan said that he never ate corned beef and cabbage in Ireland, that it is an American tradition)

On Friday, it was time to move the boat back to Big Major Spot, to avoid the hefty moorage fees at the marina. The departure was just as interesting as the arrival. The HUGE catamaran had left, but, there were now three other boats in the way. The dockmaster assured us that they would all be asked to move for our departure. The first to leave was a 120 foot yacht that had been sticking out past the end of the dock about 30 feet. He went forward and immediately went aground in the shallow sand. Using all of his bow and stern thrusters, he was able to get free and backed on to the gas dock for refueling. One of the other boats left, and the third backed off about 10 feet and wanted to know when we were leaving. As soon as they were out of the way! We then backed the boat down the length of the dock, and with the help of our friend Buddy from CanFlor Girl, we made the turn and headed out of the marina. Judy rode on the bow pulpit all the way to the anchorage. The wind blowing gently against her. As we lowered the anchor, we could see the swimming pigs on the beach. While we read in the cockpit of the boat, we had fun watching the inflatables and small boats that went to feed the pigs.

First thing Saturday morning, we headed for piggy beach, armed with bread for the hog armada. We weren’t even close when they first ventured out. I tried to throw the bread far enough away that they would have to swim away from us, but those guys are quick!! Our friends from Nightengale and Big Easy joined us, and we had fun watching the pigs on the attack. We laughed so hard! We heard a scream and turned to see Big Easy Gail jump to the other side of the dinghy to avoid being bitten in the butt by a feisty pig! Their yellow lab, Kassee, was going nuts, barking at the pigs.

After that wild adventure, we took our dinghies on a long ride up to Sampson Cay, the next island to the north. They have a very nice marina there, with a store, a restaurant and bar, a laundry, showers, and many palm trees. We enjoyed a delicious meal at the restaurant, then headed back to the anchorage. It was low tide, so the water got a little shallow in places, but the colors of the water were spectacular! We spent a quiet evening on the boat, watching “Thunderball” and eating popcorn.

On Sunday, we accepted an invitation from Big Easy to come over and watch the Huskies play North Carolina in the NCAA tournament. They have a satellite TV dish and Sirius radio. Frank and Gail are from northern Mississippi. They live on 160 acres, in a log home. Gail was born in Memphis, and has a beautiful southern accent. Frank was born in Holland and it is interesting to listen to his Dutch accent. Kassee is a beautiful white lab, and we had a great time spoiling her! It was so much fun to watch the Huskies, and we certainly did our part to cheer them on, but unfortunately North Carolina came out on top. Later that evening we went over to Nightengale for sundowners. Frank brought his conch shells, and he, Gail, and Dave blew them when the sun went down. Then Dave hauled out his trumpet and played Taps. The sun didn’t let us down. It gave Judy, one last gorgeous sunset for her trip.

Judy’s week went extremely fast!!! Monday morning the wind had picked up. It was going to be an interesting and wet ride over to the marina. We decided to go early and lounge one last time around the pool, have lunch, and then head for the airport. We loaded up the dinghy and set out for Staniel Cay. It was pretty rocky and rolly, but doable, until we passed around the point of Big Major. We had just put on the rain coats, and were now headed directly into the wind and waves. Very soon, the water was spraying over the bow, drenching us, and filling up the boat. We decided that we wouldn’t be able to bail fast enough to get there safely, so we turned around and headed back to the boat. We put out a call to the Island Taxi, and found that they would pick us up and return us for $100.00 round trip, so we split the cost and decided to ride over in comfort and safety. The taxi picked us up about 10 minutes after we arrived back at the boat, so we headed on over to the marina, wet clothes and all. We spent the afternoon having lunch at the bar, drying out by the pool, and having one last Pina Colada. Then, it was time to head for the airport. Fortunately, the Taxi man had a golf cart that he wasn’t using, so he offered to let us use it. With a little extra time, we took Judy on a brief tour of the island, before pulling up to the airfield. Before we knew it, it was time to say good bye. If only we had had more time! We thoroughly enjoyed having her with us, and I know she enjoyed it too! You can’t go wrong coming to this beautiful place in the world. Dave and I took the golf cart back to the marina, by way of the store. Thank God we did. The cold Dave had when Judy first got there, was now transferred to me, and little did I know how bad it would get. We were fortunate to find a bottle of Nyquil in the store, that would help me through the next few nights. We had an uneventful ride back to the boat in the water taxi, and I immediately laid down for a nap.

The next morning, we hauled up the anchor and sailed down to Black Point. By the calls we heard on the radio, everyone was headed for Black Point. Our friends on High Spirit were already there, and decided to host a dinner party at Lorraine’s, the local café. The guest list topped out at 20 cruisers. We arrived about 5:00pm and chatted, then a shrimp platter was passed around the room. A while later, Lorraine set up a buffet that included ribs, chicken, fried conch, fried lobster, cole slaw, potato salad, mac & cheese (not like the US version. It is more like stacked macaroni, and then baked. Not a lot of cheese sauce, and they add peppers), and chocolate and white cake for dessert. We all ate more than we should have, but we had a great time (in spite of my cold).

On Wednesday, we decided to check out the iguanas on a nearby beach. Just like the pigs, as the dinghies approached the beach the iguanas came out to see what we had to feed them. The biggest one was about 3 feet long, but most of them were much smaller. You had to keep a careful watch, as the buggers tended to sneak up on you. After the feeding frenzy, we took a walk on the beach, looking for shells, and then headed back over to Black Point.

Our group decided to go sightseeing on the island, so we inquired to see if we could rent a couple of golf carts. Because there are a limited amount of paved roads, they had only one golf cart with the proper tires to use on the unpaved roads. We decided we would go in shifts to the Castle home and the nearby beach. Dave and I were in the first shift. We got about 3 quarters of the way to the Castle, when we blew a tire. Luckily, we had a VHF radio with us, so we called the rental shop for help. We were informed that the cargo ship had just docked, and he would not be able to assist us until the ship was unloaded, which would be about 2 hours. He suggested we call the Castle for assistance. So, I called the Castle, but no one responded. Fortunately, their neighbor called back to say that he was on his way to town and would be happy to assist us. He arrived about 20 minutes later and gave us all a ride back to the dock.

The cargo ship was tied up at the dinghy dock, so we would not be able to leave for several hours. We watched the ship unload for awhile, then we walked to a nearby restaurant that was famous for its homemade pizza. We ordered two of the specials and washed it down with ice cold beer. It seems we have gone to having 2 meals a day – a late breakfast, a late lunch, and then appetizers with our sundowners. I should be losing weight. Yeah, right!!

The decision was made that our cruising group would all venture down to Georgetown. This will be our southernmost destination. So, Thursday morning we set sail for Cave Cay and anchored just inside of the channel we will use to go out into Exuma Sound on the eastern side of the islands. The wind was making it pretty rocky when we anchored, but by bedtime the sea was nearly flat and the stars were out in full force.
Bright and early on Friday morning, March 25th, we headed out the channel and into Exuma Sound. There was not much wind blowing, so it was a slow ride, but it gave 2 of the boats a chance to troll for fish. We had only been out about 20 minutes or so, when Gail from Big Easy announced that Frank had a strike. He hauled in a 3 foot Mahi Mahi. Yum!! Fresh fish for dinner. The rest of the trip was uneventful. We did pass many boats already heading north, including Osprey, who we hoped we would see again in Georgetown.

In the early afternoon, we arrived in Georgetown and took a mooring ball off of Volleyball beach. Soon after, we dinghied ashore for a cold drink at the Chat n’ Chill bar. They call Georgetown “Adult Daycare” and I can see why. In the height of the season there will be over 300 boats here. They have scheduled activities such as volleyball, poker, yoga, bridge, etc. You can swim, snorkel, or just lounge on the white sand beach. People come here and don’t leave for months.

But, I must leave you now. I will tell you all about our adventures in Georgetown when I get the chance to write another blog and get it posted. I need to get to town now, just to get this much posted. Rest assured that we are having the time of our lives.

Hope all is well at home. Say hello to those who know us. Stay safe!

Love & Hugs,

The Admiral

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Wednesday March 2nd 2011

Hello from the Bahamas!!! We spent the last few days in Miami saying good bye to our old friends, and making crossing plans with new friends. We also attended the Coconut Grove Art Walk. They close off a large portion of downtown along the waterfront, fence it in, load it with booths full of all kinds of art, and charge a hefty fee to get in. It also made it very difficult to leave the marina. Most all of the art was too expensive for the average person to buy, but there sure were a lot of people in attendance, each of the four days.

Our crossing group decided that the weather, wind, and waves, looked favorable for Tuesday, February 23rd, so we got busy doing last minute chores: provisioning, getting fuel and water, copying forms for customs officials, and having our mail forwarded. We called back to Olympia, to have them send us our mail, and the gal informed us that we had a large package. We were not expecting a package of that size, so we asked her to open it. Turns out it was a portrait of me, painted by the mother of my old high school boyfriend. She was moving into an assisted living facility, and Mark found it while he was clearing out her home. He thought I might like to have it. Boy! Was I ever curious to see it. We had Matt go pick it up, and then take a picture of it to text to me. What a surprise to see an oil painting of me from 40 years ago!! I never knew it existed. It was very nicely done. I wrote Mark a long letter, thanking him for the portrait, and telling him about my life, since breaking up with him, so I could date Dave. I’m hoping I will get an email back from him, telling me about his life. When the rest of the mail caught up with us, it was not nearly as interesting!!

We also discovered that we needed immigration cards from the US, to get back into the country after we leave the Bahamas. You fill out a form on line, and then set up an appointment for an interview, at the nearest port office, which in this case, is the Port of Miami. We needed to rent a car for the day, and because the Miami Boat Show was in full swing, the cost was double. Ouch!! We got to the port office and gave them our form ID number, and he asked where the second one was. OOPS! Seems that you need a form for each person, not one for the boat. It would take us far too long to go back to the boat and get computer access, so we went outside, and Dave tried for 45 minutes to complete the form on his Blackberry. It kept kicking him out of the site, so we did the next best thing. We asked our GPS to find the nearest Marriott, and she did, .3 miles away. We pulled into the portico, parked, and walked in as though we were already registered guests, then walked to the business area and logged onto one of their computers. In about 3 minutes we were done and on our way back to the port office. We handed the official our second number, and about 2 minutes later, we had our immigration cards in hand. So much for the interview!

The night before departure, we tried to go to bed early, but I really wanted to watch, “The Bachelor”. Darn TV show anyway! I finally caved in about 9:30, and decided I could live without seeing the rest.

At 2:00 am the alarm went off and we scurried about preparing the boat for departure. At 3:00 am we were all ready, except one boat that needed a little more time. They thought we were leaving at 3:30, not 3:00, but at 3:20 am we all cast off our lines from the mooring balls, and threaded our way through the marina, and out through the channel into Key Biscayne Bay. Lucky for us, it was a full moon, so we had a little extra light. Since we came into Key Biscayne the same way we were leaving, we used our GPS to lead the way. All was good until we heard a Coast Guard warning on the radio, that there was a hazard to navigation at marker #1. That was right where we were!! We kept a close watch out, but never saw anything odd, however we did encounter several sailboats that had anchored “in the channel”, that we had to weave around!! The Coast Guard could have also been referring to two of the channel markers farther out that were supposed to be lit, but weren’t! Thank God for GPS. We were able to go to where the markers were marked on the GPS, and avoid hitting the unlit ones.

After passing Cape Florida, we entered the Atlantic, and were soon in the Gulfstream. We had a beautiful crossing. The seas were calm, the sun was bright, and we were able to motor sail most of the way. There were four boats altogether; Journey, Christopher Robin, Anna Livia, and us. We were in the lead most of the way, and got to the channel at Bimini, a little ahead of the others. Rather than wait for Journey to lead us in, since she had been there before, we decided to follow another sailboat just entering the channel. Unfortunately, he was a little too far ahead of us, so I followed the GPS channel. Bad idea! The shifting sands had changed the channel and very quickly we were into shallow water. We tried to avert it, but ended up getting into even shallower water. We were stuck on a sand bar, a beautiful white sand bar, and the tide was still going out. There was nothing we could do but wait for high tide, which wouldn’t be until 11:30 pm. It was now about 2:00pm. We would have a long wait!!

Shortly after, the rest of our group arrived and we told them via radio, about the change in the channel, which was not well marked. We watched as they passed safely by, and asked that they send someone out to help us. As the afternoon passed, we had the opportunity to help several more boats who did not want to end up where we were. Two of them missed the channel completely and were headed for the sand bar on the other side of the reef. We watched it about to happen, and tried to get their attention on the radio, telling them to “turn left now!!” They finally heard us, but not before they bumped. Luckily they were able to back off and turn left.

About 4:00 pm, a speed boat came out from the harbor to assist. His name was Orlando. By this time, Dave had already set an anchor out 200 feet at a ninety degree angle to the boat, so that we would be able to “kedge” directly toward the beach, and the deeper water, as the tide came in. It would also keep us from going farther onto the sand bar and away from the reef. Orlando confirmed that it was the right thing to do, and that there was nothing he could do at this time. He told us he would come back about 10:00 – 10:30 pm, and check on us.

As the afternoon wore on, several more boats passed by, and some stopped to see if they could help, but there was nothing they could do. One man said he would come back out at high tide, around 11:30, and escort us through the channel and into the harbor. Yeah! As the sun started to set, another boat took a wrong turn and was grounded also, but after the tide started to come back in, he was floating again in no time. We slowly lost almost all water beneath us, and the boat gently laid down on her side. We were thankful that there was only sand, and no rocks. It is extremely difficult to walk on a boat at a 40 degree angle, and even more difficult to try to get down inside the boat. I tried going down the companionway ladder, lost my footing, and ended up doing a monkey swing, and smacking my head into the mug holder on the wall.

Dave did an awesome job! He worked so hard getting the heavy anchor and line into the dinghy, in rough current, and getting it set just right. Then as we slowly started getting more water under us, he would use the windlass to take up any slack in the line, and slowly start turning us, and dragging us, toward the deeper water. He now has bruises all over his shins and scrapes on his knees for his efforts. I was so proud of him!

Once the water finally started getting deeper, it seemed to go more quickly than when it went out. We were finally upright again, and when we finally had a little water under the keel, the surf would pick the boat up and then slam it back down on the sand. The boat would make a big thud and then all the rigging would rattle and shake. This went on for quite awhile, but it did allow Dave to get the boat turned in the right direction, and we would inch closer and closer to the deeper water.

Our greatest fear was how we would make it through the channel in the dark, without running aground again. When 10:30 passed and there was no sign of Orlando, we became very concerned. We were close to being totally afloat. Dave kept kedging, and all of a sudden he yelled, “We’re afloat!! We have to go NOW!!”. Luckily, we already had the motor running, so I put it in gear and headed toward the beach. Unfortunately, the moon was blocked by clouds, so it was very dark. Dave turned on our spotlight and lit up the beach, and we used it to guide us into the harbor. I said a few thousand prayers! Our friend on Journey had arranged for us to be able to tie up to the gas dock when we got in, so he and some dockhands were waiting for us. Talk about scarey, I’ve never attempted docking in the dark. We had to try twice, but finally we were in and tied up at 11:50 pm. We thanked all of the helpers with a beer (the usual form of payment in the Bahamas), and had a beer ourselves. Then off to the showers before going to bed. We slept well that night!!

The next morning we had several couples stop by the boat and thank us for helping them through the channel, and check to see how we were doing. We were the talk of the town! When Dave checked in at customs, they asked how we were, he said we were much better now that we weren’t on the sand bar anymore. They said, “Oh, you’re the ones!”, and gave us a permit for 150 days. The day before, everyone in our group that checked in only got 90 days.

We spent the rest of the day checking out Alice Town. It has one main street, that is just wide enough for two vehicles to pass, but if you are a pedestrian, you better get out of the way! They drive on the opposite side of the road and most of the vehicles are golf carts!! Most of the people on the island are very poor, and their homes are in bad shape, but they are happy. All of the shops are tiny one room buildings. But, they do have an ice cream truck, just like the old days, and with quite a variety for sale. You can hear the music it plays, all over the island.

Wednesday evening, our group bought fresh lobster and conch, from the fishermen on the dock. So, Thursday morning we got a lesson in how to clean and prepare lobster, from Gerard and Louise on Christopher Robin. She then made a marinade to soak it in and we returned it to our refrigerator. The marinade was made from olive oil, lemon juice, lime juice, worstershire sauce, tobacco sauce, Old Bay seasoning, and garlic.

We then walked across the island and went swimming in the ocean. It felt soooo good! A little cool, so it felt very refreshing. Most of the ladies went beachcombing, but I stayed in the water and picked up shells with my toes. At long last, Dave dragged me out of the water and we walked back to the boat to prepare for our evening feast. At 4:00 pm, one of the ladies instructed all of the women in how to prepare a conch salad. Which means that you cut the conch in tiny pieces and then add tomato, celery, peppers, lime and lemon juice. The conch is not cooked, you eat it raw! I think it is an acquired taste, but they eat it everywhere in the Bahamas.

The real hit of the night was the lobster. We cooked it on a charcoal grill, and it was fabulous!! We rounded the meal out with the conch salad, a pasta salad, rice, beans, pumpkin bread, and brownies. Yummy!

On Friday we went with another group of cruisers to breakfast, and had the best omelet I have ever had! I’m not sure why it was so good, but it just had a little sweetness to it. One of the women said it was probably made with fresh from the chicken eggs. Maybe so! I don’t think I’ve ever had eggs that fresh.

After breakfast, we joined the group on a trip to the Shark Lab on Bimini’s south island. We had to take a ferry across the bay, then a bus to the lab. It is a privately owned research facility. The woman in charge is a working on her PHD from the University of Miami. It is a three year project, and she has about a half year to complete. She has several volunteers that work with her. She is studying the effects of a change in environment for the Lemon Sharks in Bimini Bay. A new resort is being built, that has destroyed a large portion of their breeding grounds, so she is studying their effect on this species. It was fascinating! She took us out to their holding pens in the lagoon, and showed us how they handle the sharks. When they are flipped over onto their backs, they go into a trance like state and will not resist. The researchers can then make an incision and insert a tracking device, before sewing them back up. They need no anesthesia, and the sharks feel nothing. When they are flipped back over, they swim away easily. These yearlings were about 2 feet long, and really cute. They are more scared of us, than we are of them, and will not bite unless they are provoked.

A year or so ago, the TV show “Mythbusters” went to the shark lab to find out the truth to the rumor that a drop of blood will attract sharks. They started with a drop of human blood, and got no reaction from the sharks. When they used a drop of fish blood, the sharks and many other fish, were instantly attracted.

When we arrived back in Alice Town, we tried to go swimming again at the beach, but it was too wild. We opted instead to rent a golf cart and see the rest of the island. We drove all the way up to the Bimini Bay Resort. It is a gated community built around a marina that housed mega yachts. This is where all the rich people live. They have their very own white sand beach to swim at that looks like they rake every day. No garbage anywhere. The homes, of course, are gorgeous.

That evening we discussed our plans to leave the next morning, and about 8:15 am, we cast off our lines and headed out of the harbor. A short time later, we passed through a narrow channel between some rocks and onto the Bahama Bank. This is a shelf on the ocean that is about 57 miles from west to east and about 187 miles from north to south. It is also only 10-20 feet deep, and has the clearest turquoise water imaginable. We sailed about 45 miles across, and then anchored for the night in the middle of nowhere. No sight of land anywhere! After nightfall, the water was a little rougher than we would have liked, making it difficult to sleep.

At the crack of dawn, we were on our way again, but the water and wind was making it pretty rough the entire day. We were just like a big old rocking horse, going up and down the waves. Thankfully, neither one of us got seasick. The rough seas slowed us down more than we would have liked, so we into Frazier’s Hog Cay, just before sundown. We were just very glad to be there!! There is not much here: a dock, a mooring field, a restaurant and bar, and showers(of a sort). Mostly, it is a rocky island with scrubby vegetation, that is a way station for cruisers.

I spent the next morning writing this blog entry, while Dave tinkered with the boat. It took far longer than I had anticipated. Later in the day, we met up with all the other cruisers on the porch of the Berry Island Club, the only establishment for several miles. Everyone looked at the weather forecasts and made decisions on where they were going next. We will have a one day window of opportunity, before the next front comes through, so we decided to go to Nassau, with a group of 7 other boats. We made plans to leave at 7:00 am the next morning.

Bright and early the next morning, we left the mooring field and headed for Nassau. It was a little more choppy than the forecast had called for. We were back to being a rocking horse. We had our staysail up to begin with, and after several hours, we were able to raise the mainsail. The last few hours were on calmer seas and it was quite enjoyable.

Around 2:00 pm, we were granted permission to enter Nassau Harbour. We passed by the cruise ship docks and past some incredibly big yachts, before finding the marina that we would be staying at. Fortunately, I was able to get the boat into the dock without any trouble. As we were tying the boat up, I announced to those on the dock to greet us, that it was Dave’s birthday. Of course, everyone broke into song! I’m determined he’ll have a great birthday!!

After checking in, I headed for the swimming pool. AAAAHHHHH! So refreshing!! After lounging around the pool for awhile, I took a shower, and then we made plans with the others to go have a birthday dinner at “the Poop Deck”. After a short walk, we all had a drink at the bar while waiting for our table. There were twelve of us! When we were all seated, Dave wanted a picture of the group, and a gentleman from the next table offered to take it. Yeah! Soon afterward, the waiter delivered a “Happy Birthday” shot to Dave, courtesy of the guy who took the picture. We then enjoyed a great meal and learned more about our new friends. I can’t believe how many people from Ohio we have met! We also found out that our new friends, Gene and Gail on Nightingale, are friends with Howell and Jo on Why Knot, the couple we spent so much time with in Fort Pierce!! Both couples are from Port Aransas, Texas. We then went back to the marina for a good nights sleep.

During the night the winds picked up and the rains came pouring down, which helped clean the salt off the boat. This morning we went to Starbucks, yes, Starbucks, so we could try to get online. Later, we took the bus in to town to go to the straw market. There were 10 of us, and right after we got on the bus, another bus pulled diagonally in front of the bus, blocking both lanes. He was angry that all 10 of us had gotten on his bus. He refused to move. Cars began honking, but he still would not move. Finally, our bus driver drove up on the shoulder to try to move forward, but he cut him off again. After a few more minutes, the other driver finally gave up and moved on. Our bus driver then gunned it, and sped past the other bus. It seems to be a very competitive business!

Traffic moves very slowly in Nassau, so it took us awhile to get into downtown. Once there, we got out and began walking the main street towards the straw market. We passed many “tourist traps” along the way, including duty free liquor stores with cheap prices on Rum. The straw market itself is one giant tent with about 10 aisles. Each aisle is crammed from top to bottom with tourist stuff, and every ten feet is a new salesman trying to get you to buy the same stuff from them. Crazy!! Dave bought a new wallet and a t-shirt. I bought a Bahamas beach bag with a parrot embroidered on it. We also bought 5 ripped off copies of current movie hits, and prayed they would work on our DVD player.

Next stop was for something to eat. We found a small café that was fairly crowded, so we figured it was probably good. Dave had grouper fingers and I had chicken fingers. Both were very good! After that we stopped in a linen store that had a lot of nautical décor. I found an oval mirror surrounded by metal shells that I thought would look good in the aft head(bathroom). Our last stop was at the liquor store where we picked up some coconut rum and some 151 rum. We then caught a bus back to the marina.

Tonight, we went to the casino at Atlantis, the big, very expensive resort on Paradise Island. As long as you are willing to gamble, they will let you in. Otherwise, the resort is off limits to the public, unless you are paying a fortune to stay there. Or, you can pay $40.00 each to tour their aquarium only. So, we hit the casino instead and found to our surprise that they do not charge for the aquarium at night, so we ended up seeing it for free!! It is all based on the lost city of Atlantis, so the super large tanks all have pieces of the ruins in them. They have all sorts of fish to see, as well as humongous manta rays, and even some jellyfish tanks. We then spent several hours in the casino trying to recoup money we have spent on our boats. Everyone was impressed with the Dale Chihuly glass that is on display throughout the resort. Amazing!

Hope all is well at home. We heard there was more snow in western Washington! Our weather of course is fabulous, however, the winds and waves play havoc with trying to plan sailing days. We know we will be here in Nassau for the next 4 days, as nasty high winds are predicted from the North. I will try to blog again from one of the outer Exuma islands, but it will depend on where we get our next internet connection. Until then, stay safe and healthy!

Love & Hugs,

The Admiral